You defiantly have to be using a thin auto paint for this to work. So, if you can, I'd recommend using something like the preval brand spray gun, but if you can't, I found a regular hand powered spray bottle worked nicely. So while the four dollar system is very cheap, by the time I pay shipping and handling, and wait around for it to be delivered. Except, as it turns out, the ones near me. Its a great system that aerosolizes anything, is easy to clean and available at nearly any stores. My initial plan was to use these little cheap-o sprayers from the hardware store. To make this color, I used silver (5 parts), blue (1 part) and yellow (1 part). people are actually weatherizng paint jobs to create fake (or faux) patina. Here, were going to apply our top color layer- for this truck, I went with a teal-green color. Being the rodder I am, my first job was to peel off what trim I could. If you're starting to panic because it's looking like you ruined your truck, rest easy - it's going to start looking better after this step.
#FAUX PATINA PAINT JOB HOW TO#
I've got it down on how to do the process or wet sanding/painting etc. I just got myself a Micargi Mustang GTS Stretch Cruiser and I'm going for the Patina look for the new paint job. But again, we're after a pretty thick layer and want that texture. 1 Hows it goin everyone Ok I have a question about the Patina/Faux-Tina paint process. To actually apply the red-oxide layer, brace yourself once again, you're going to need a roller. I give my truck a rinse with solvent before each paint coat. It's not essential for this layer, as we are going to be putting more paint on top, but keep it in mind for the final coats.īecause I live on a gravel road, the dust levels are pretty intense.
I mix up a quart of color at a time and keep it in a sealed container until I'm ready to use it. Even if you use a paint measuring cup (which you should be using), there will be a bit of variation between batches. It's not essential, especially at this layer, but its a good idea to mix enough to cover the entire car before your start painting. To make this color, I used a combination of hugger orange and black (4 parts orange to 1 part black). Most of the older cars used a red-oxide primer, which is what we're going to duplicate here. Just make sure that’s “the look” before you make the big commitment to take it off.The next step is to put a layer of red-oxide colored paint over the base coat. In fact, the vinyl is probably protecting the paint underneath and ironically, one day, in the distant future when every other Toyota truck is all rusted and clapped out, you can peel off your wrap and have the cleanest, most well preserved old truck on the road. It’s like having a temporary tattoo of the words “Limp” and “Bizkit” on your arm and not trying to wash them off. It’s the ultimate chicken-shit move because in the back of your mind you know that you can peel the vinyl off at any time and go back to having a normal truck instead of a Disneyland ride, but for some reason, you choose not to.
At least the traditional “fake” patina is something that actually becomes a part of the car. Call me old fashioned, but when it comes to applying fake rust to a car, I’ll take a foam brush from Home Depot over a Photoshop brush from Deviant Art any day of the fucking week. In other words, I’m talking about a patina wrap. It’s all about patina that is not only “not real”, but is actually “fake” on a deeper level.
Okay, maybe it’s not really like that at all, but hopefully you get the basic concept: The look is not even about emulating an actual time-weathered patina any more. It’s sort of like the concept of Off-Off Broadway, only for cars.
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